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Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.
I want to wake up next to what I went to bed with. I need a girl who can get dressed up to come with me to things, but also one who isn't afraid to get her fingernails dirty or chip her nail polish.
Maybe this is just horrible bad, but I think I've had enough successes to where the journey is more important to me now. There's no guarantee, no matter what. We get one run in life.
The dream is to have it all. Who says you can't have your cake and eat it too? Live this life, that life, this life, you know? You only live one time - I want to get it all in.
I'm a science guy. I'm a geek. I love geology and botany and marine science. I thought maybe I'd be a professional guide, or maybe even a park ranger, working for the Department of Fish and Game.
I'm a doer, and whether it was the tsunami in Sri Lanka or the earthquake in Indonesia, I was always saying, 'I should be there; I should be helping out.'
I hope I'm in a position to make stuff that I really want to make as opposed to stuff that I just have to make for money reasons, or to sustain a certain marquee value.
I've been so transient, I've been on my own since I was 16. I didn't even have my own place until I was 32 years old. I literally lived out of bags for 16-plus years.
That's one thing about Hollywood. People don't always want what's real. People always want a little more. So for me, it's a compromise. Here you go, that hyper-reality.